White Wine: 2020 | Joseph Colin | Saint-Aubin Clos du Meix
Scents of crisp green apple, Anjou pear, white flowers, mint and fresh bread. Medium-bodied, bright and tangy, it's incisive and vibrant, with a pretty core of fruit and a penetrating finish.
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Producer: Joseph Colin
Ratings: JM | 91 BH | 89
Vintage: 2020
Size: 750ml
ABV: 13%
Varietal: Chardonnay
Country/Region: France, Burgundy
Scents of crisp green apple, Anjou pear, white flowers, mint and fresh bread. Medium-bodied, bright and tangy, it's incisive and vibrant, with a pretty core of fruit and a penetrating finish.
Reviews:
- Jasper Morris: A cooler site which does well in these warm vintages. More lemon than lime in colour, with an attractive reductive note sitting atop the vibrant fresh fruit. This fills out very nicely on the palate, a mix of ripe fruits without exaggeration and a cool crisp finish. The fruit comes back very well afterwards.
- Burghound: A vaguely Chablis-like nose reflects notes of iodine, cool white orchard fruit and light mineral reduction. The highly energetic middle weight flavors possess cuts-like-a-knife delineation before concluding in an equally saline, linear and crisp finale. This should benefit from a few years of bottle age to more completely unwind.
Producer Information
Joseph Colin is one of the four children of Marc Colin (the others being Pierre-Yves, Damien and Caroline), who had a large domaine with vines in Saint Aubin, Santenay, Chassagne and Puligny. Pierre-Yves left the family domaine in 2005 and after that Joseph was an important member of the team there. After making a token 1800 or so bottles on his own account in 2016, he started in earnest with 2017, with seven hectares of vines, from which he makes an astonishing nineteen different cuves. Most of the vines he has in Saint Aubin are young, but by limiting bunches to six or seven per vine, he manages to control the yields. With plenty of time to learn his craft at Domaine Marc Colin, he has developed into a confident winemaker. He experimented with sulphur levels in the wines at the family domaine, so coming to his current view that the wines should be left the longest time possible without added S02, perhaps adding some at racking, but if he feels there's still enough C02 after racking, he will not even add any at that stage, so as to develop 'wine at its purest', but he is keen to say also that he has no standard recipe - he will adapt to each wine. In 2020 he again used no S02 until just before bottling, but he's clear that if there's some botrytis, for example, he will add it earlier. Generally nothing is either fined or filtered. He is very aware of biodynamics, but says that the tides are more important than just the phase of the moon, and that he places less importance on whether it's a fruit or flower day - for him the important thing is not to manipulate a wine when it's tasting good - you must do it when it's not showing well. Joseph is a very bright new prospect for lovers of precise, pure white Burgundies with fresh acidity and crystalline definition.
